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DIY bow press


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#1 styk

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 10:39 PM

Sometimes it's a PITA to run to the nearest bow shop for minor maintenance. I've been looking at several DIY plans for various types, some looked a little intimidating, others were downright scary but in the end I opted for a hydraulic model as I had an old 1.5 tone bottle jack, various pieces of square tubing and angle iron, air craft cable, 3/8" nuts and bolts, wire nuts and loops. All I needed extra was 4' of 1.5" square tube, 3' of 1/2" round stock, a 3/4 cast iron threaded end cap, couple of 3/8" eye bolts, 2 boat rollers and a 1' each 1/2", 3/4" inner diameter automotive hose. This was the cheapest option by far, less then $20 but even if you had to buy everything, still under $75.

Links to an Xpress bow press plan

Link to a hydraulic press plan, the one I used with some modifications.

Scary engineering, not recommended

My modified version, added some adjustabilty. note that nothing permanent was welded on.

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#2 styk

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Posted 07 September 2010 - 07:37 PM

Drilled them myself, lots of cutting oil on a mid size pedestal drill press, used 4 sizes for the 1/2" holes, started small, 3/16", 3/8", 7/16" and finished with the 1/2" holes.

I modified it by making main tube strictly a support member. I moved the bow riser support rods to a twin tube assembly using a 1 3/4" tube welded to another 1 1/2 tube that can be moved to precisely position the riser support rods for any particular bow design. One end of the 1 1/2" tube was drilled and cut open for the pivoting arm the same as the original plans called for in the horizontal tube. I ended up having to drill one more hole closer to the pivot point in each arm due to raising the arm pivit an additional 1 1/2".
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#3 nbbucks

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 06:28 AM

Great job on the press!
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"Some people say, well I got meat for my freezer. Well I say how about a big rack for the wall." Legendary Vermont deer hunter.......Larry Benoit

#4 mu'in

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 09:13 AM

Found this online, thought that it was a neat/easy idea for a press.

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"If they run, they'll just die tired"

 

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- Browning BLR PG, .300wsm

- Savage Model 11, .243

- My trusty 1958 Winchester model 12, 12ga

- Limbsaver dz30, Easton FMJ and a muzzy


#5 styk

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Posted 10 September 2010 - 05:19 PM

Inventive, would definitely be a low cost to build.
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#6 mu'in

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 12:11 PM

quick question.

i see the pivot assembly slides on the main support? to fit bows.. correct

No issue when you tighten the bolt on the pivot slide bottom? i assume that bolt on the bottom is for locking the slide section in place)) any issue / danger of it Slipping?

FYI - I see on line that they have something for this type of press for ding split limb --ie X force (pse) bows.

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"If they run, they'll just die tired"

 

browning_sig-exp_zpsa59d45fb.png

 

- Browning BLR PG, .300wsm

- Savage Model 11, .243

- My trusty 1958 Winchester model 12, 12ga

- Limbsaver dz30, Easton FMJ and a muzzy


#7 styk

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 12:45 PM

quick question. i see the pivot assembly slides on the main support? to fit bows.. correct


Yup

No issue when you tighten the bolt on the pivot slide bottom? i assume that bolt on the bottom is for locking the slide section in place)) any issue / danger of it Slipping?



Nope, I put 2 on the bottom and 2 on the backside to eliminate any possibility of rocking in the horizontal or vertical axis.




FYI - I see on line that they have something for this type of press for ding split limb --ie X force (pse) bows.


Yup, I've seen that too, it also allows the pressure exerted by the press to be placed closer to the wheel or cam axle. the design I modified will also handle split limb and the past parallel bows like the PSE Omen, just may have to lengthen the notch in the pivot tube. That "U" piece could be used instead of the straight rod/boat roller that I have on mine.

After using mine for a while, I think I will replace the bottle jack and cable with a trailer jack and 2 flat bars, same as the Xpress that you can buy commercially. The bottle jack and cable is a lot cheaper then the other method buit a little sloppy until the bow is under some pressure from the press.


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#8 mu'in

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 02:22 PM

Great,
Thanks Styk

printed pics and off to see me welding buddy -- :D

PS, like the turn-buckle idea
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"If they run, they'll just die tired"

 

browning_sig-exp_zpsa59d45fb.png

 

- Browning BLR PG, .300wsm

- Savage Model 11, .243

- My trusty 1958 Winchester model 12, 12ga

- Limbsaver dz30, Easton FMJ and a muzzy


#9 KPR

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 02:36 PM

Cool ideas guys.
Necessity is the mother of invention B)


The bottle jack and cable is a lot cheaper then the other method buit a little sloppy until the bow is under some pressure from the press.


Was gonna mention maybe two tabs/spots welded on or a groove scored ontop of that cap to kinda keep it in line or a bit more secure/safe...R... when applying pressure.
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#10 styk

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 06:09 PM

Cool ideas guys.
Necessity is the mother of invention B)




Was gonna mention maybe two tabs/spots welded on or a groove scored ontop of that cap to kinda keep it in line or a bit more secure/safe...R... when applying pressure.

Yes, I should have pointed that out, it is grooved to keep the cable in place.
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#11 styk

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 08:48 PM

If anyone was looking at the Xpress, method, Princess auto has their 5000 Lb Trailer jack on sale for $45, square body for easy attachment to the horizontal tube. has a 5/8" pin holding the foot on, I plan on removing the foot and replacing the pin with a 5" 5/8" bolt, no welding or cutting required for that part.

Pro X press plans

5,000 lb Weld-On Drop Leg Trailer Jack
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#12 cougarjim

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 01:30 PM

Here are some free plans for the X press. Also there are free plans for a hydraulic press.

http://cougarjim1.com

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#13 Scott@ap

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 02:55 PM

I'm just saying alot of the newer bows do not like to be pressed like that,and there is some i wouldn't press that way and some companies don't recommend that way and will void warranty's .,there is some that can be but i would try to follow a few thing's,where the roller touches the limb for pressing make sure it's atleast 4" from the limb pocket the roller that touch the riser should be out towards the limb as far as possible without touching the limb during the pressing make sure limb bolts are backed out to max,and only press the bow far enough to get the string and cable off no further,these presses want to push the riser vertically up word,to much pressure is bad new's,and when the bow is pressed don't put any pressure vertically down on the riser.just to stress the pressure points of these presses are critical to have in the right spot or damage will happen.
just trying to pass along some helpful info. pls don't shot the messenger.
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